My Favorite Part of Paris: Le Marais

The most frustrating thing about traveling in Europe: everything is closed on Sundays. Fortunately, this is not true about the Jewish district of Paris, called Le Marais. I had never heard of this area, but a friend of mine is studying and working as a fashion blogger Paris, and she said it was a must. We failed to meet up on Saturday because she had a deadline, so we decided to spend the day together on Sunday. I knew she would not want to do touristy things with me such as see the Louvre and gaze at the Eiffel Tower (which is a block from her apartment). So I told her I was up for anything, and this was her first suggestion. I immediately responded (as if I knew what I was talking about), "No, Emily. All the shops will be closed--it's Sunday!" She replied by explaining to me that Le Marais is historically and aristocratically Jewish. It is close to La Seine, and is host to a famous old temple. At the end of the 19th century, it became home to a large Jewish community. Since the idea of not working on Sundays is a Catholic belief, there was an abundance of unique restaurants and boutiques that were ALL open on Sunday!

I met her at the gardens outside of The Louvre, and took the subway to Le Marais. We walked to an Italian restaurant that had been recommended to her called "Grazie."While kabobs and gyros are apparently amazing in this area, the lines were wrapping around block and we were more in the mood to sit down and catch up. After a fabulous lunch and drinks, we walked down a few blocks to do some window-shopping. I felt like I was in a completely different city than what I had seen of Paris the past 2 days I had been there. All of the clothing stores were high-end boutiques, which we could only hope to one day be able to shop at. There were also stores that sold amazing chocolate, fancy soaps, homemade jam of exotic flavors, beautiful flowers and so much more.

What I loved about this district was how quaint it was. Paris is a pretty overwhelming city, and to be able to spend my last day of the trip in a small area, filled with my two favorite things (shopping and food) was extremely refreshing. Not to mention I was with my childhood friend whom I had not seen in over a year. 
I made a few purchases, but my favorite one was the jam that I bought for my mother. In this tiny jam store, customers could sample all the different kinds of jam with a little plastic spoon. There had to have been at least 50 flavors to choose from. After sampling a few, I was having a hard time deciding which one to get. The woman working came up to tell me that there was a new flavor that had just been made a week ago: vanilla and pear. I loved the sound of that. After tasting it, I knew it was the one and that my mom was going to love it.

            I bought it and later realized that it was too many ounces to take on the plane. Fortunately, Emily was kind enough to ship it home with some things she was sending to her mother. After my fancy purchase, we walked around some more and bought some chocolate that was to-die-for. We took a nice walk along La Seine, and finished with a wonderful dinner at a restaurant called "La Favorite." Obviously there are many attractions in a city so huge and filled with tourists such as Paris. But as amazing as it was to see L'Arc de Triumph and The Eiffel Tower, nothing brought me more joy than the day I spent in Le Marais. Whether you are a jam-lover and window-shopper like me or not, Le Marais is hands-down the place to go on Sunday in Paris. And I can assure you will find something there that sparks your interest. 

Prost!

        Oktoberfest, Munich, Germany. Let’s start with my living accommodations. I booked a campsite through a company called Stoke Travel. It is run by crazy, young Australians, whose main concern is making sure everybody is having a good time. We slept in giant tents, really more like tee pees, in the freezing cold, rainy weather. I know I am making it sound miserable, but it really was worth it and an amazing experience. The campsite turns into a party at night, with food, drinks, and a “dance floor”. This was basically a make shift DJ set with rainbow lights and a covered grassy area. It was awesome.

            So after a night of little sleep we woke up at 7am to set off for Oktoberfest! Thankfully, our campsite sold dirndls, which are traditional German dresses. So we bought those early in the morning and didn’t have to worry about long lines and expensive prices.

            Oktoberfest reminded me of a fraternity party times 1000. There were people of all ages and all nationalities. Women of all ages would walk around taking orders for beer. The beer we drank was Hofbrau, and I surprisingly liked it more than I thought I would. The woman waiting on us was extremely friendly, attentive and efficient, which is rare I have been told.

I met people from Belgium, Germany, Australia, The U.S., and New Zealand. That is just a handful of countries that were represented at the festival. The most interesting thing I found about meeting a lot of foreigners is how many of them were interested in American politics. I met an Irishman who said, “So what are your thoughts on the War in Iraq?” right after I had told him my name. I had similar experiences with other foreigners as well. I thought it was strange, but also showed me how educated people from other countries were.

            All in all, it was a fabulous weekend. The campsite situation was an experience, and I was definitely ready to be home in a bed and have a proper shower by the end of it all. I found Germans to be friendly, fun and down to earth. Munich did not steal my heart, but it was a nice city. Most importantly, I cannot wait to return to Oktoberfest one day.

Culinary Bliss

Below is an assignment that I had to write for my Travel Writing class. We were assigned to write to an audience who may be visiting a foreign place, and to inform them about our culinary experience. I know I'm not Rick Steves, but I hope you enjoy!

Pesto Dal Cielo

Cinque Terre: five glorious lands known for beautiful beaches, postcard-perfect hiking, locally made white wine, limoncello, and most importantly, pesto. Originating in Italy in the 1600s, pesto is the gem of the Liguria region of the Mediterranean Coast[i]. It is a green, flavorful sauce, consisting of locally fresh basil, garlic, sea salt, olive oil, pine nuts and two different kinds of Italian cheese[ii]. Pesto can be served with many different types of dishes, including omelets, lasagna, gnocchi, and pasta. Most commonly, it is served with special types of pasta designed specifically for the Riviera-born sauce. In the Liguria region, it is typically served with either Trofie or Trenette noodles. Both are native to the area, but are very different. Trofie are short noodles with a loose curl, while Trenette noodles are long and flat, similar to linguine[iii]. Both are locally celebrated and difficult to find in any other regions of the country.

            The perception that Americans have of pesto is something very different than what one should expect when trying pesto in Cinque Terre. In fact, many Americans are not very fond of the pesto they have had in the states because it is too rich. However, with all the hype around this famous and fresh flavor in the beautiful Mediterranean, it is a must-try. Thus, I recommend you order the Trenette al Pesto. It goes perfectly with a caprese salad and a glass of Prosecco, the bubbly white wine native to Northern Italy.

An amazing restaurant in Cinque Terre is one called Dau Cila. It has an incredible ambiance, and a very friendly environment[iv]. It is located in the Riomaggiore Marina. Riomaggiore is one of the “five lands”, and is known for scuba diving, spectacular views and the church of San Giovanni Battista[v]. The restaurant, Dau Cila, comes highly recommended by local bartenders as well as many other local shop owners and waiters. Befriending locals is something that can be very beneficial to your stay. They can give insight on restaurants, nightlife, daytime hikes, and other fun ways to spend your time during your visit.

If you are at the restaurant for breakfast or lunch, the outdoor seating area has beautiful views and a fun and exciting atmosphere. The marina is the center of tourism for the town of Riomaggiore. By sitting outside, you will get to do quite a bit of people watching, as well as enjoy a beautiful day under a shaded patio. If you are there for dinner, the indoor seating is just as wonderful, although does it lack the impeccable waterfront views from the courtyard. However, if it is nighttime, the spectacular views are not visible anyway, and getting the inside experience is definitely worth it. It is recommended to eat a later dinner, as it will be easier to get seating. It is also much more typical of Europeans to eat late meals, so by eating a few hours past normal dinner time, you are doing it “the European way.”

All of the outdoor seating overlooking the water is normally very crowded, and by choosing to sit outside, you will miss out on the cave-like setting of the inside of the restaurant. Dau Cila is built into the rocks over the water, and the walls surrounding the tables are made up of painted white rock with low ceilings. If you sit at a table right up against the natural wall, your back is literally against the side of an ancient cliff. It is well lit with bright white tablecloths and chairs, white walls, and wood floors. It is loud and upbeat, yet also has a family-friendly atmosphere.

Unfortunately, the service at this restaurant is not very efficient, but patience is a virtue and it will surely be worth the wait. When the food finally arrives, you will be amazed that it looks like a work of art than something to eat. The caprese salad is especially beautiful, and your all of your senses instantly become filled with enthusiasm. The Trenette al Pesto is placed on a small, white, glass plate. The pile of noodles and potent sauce are placed in the very center, with not one spill or drip on the perfect, shiny plate. The noodles are intertwined in a way as if they were all supposed to come together as one and were never made to be individual noodles. It is like a woven basket made of trenette pasta. It is so simple; yet so beautiful.

Never will you get so much satisfaction out of a meal that is so plain and, dare I say, bland. The taste is much lighter than the pesto typically found in The United States. Though less rich, it is more flavorful. It will make your taste buds dance with more joy than any sauce you have ever tried. The nutty flavor is unlike any other typical Italian flavor. It is not creamy, but instead, transparent and tastes incredibly fresh. It is as though the sauce was made only minutes before put onto the plate, and the pasta was made fresh that morning. It tastes like the basil was picked just up the street, and taken straight into the kitchen to make the sauce right there on my plate. The garlic is present, but just barely. It does not overpower the taste of the basil and pine nuts at all. It has the perfect balance of sweet from the basil and olive oil, and salty from the sea salt that is perfectly accompanied by the ocean air. The decadent caprese salad accompanying the dish consists of the freshest, cold tomatoes, mozzarella and balsamic that are also locally grown. The meal, including the Prosecco wine, will be one of the freshest meals you will get in Italy, both the salad and pasta alike.

As mentioned before, it is absolutely nothing like American pesto. The pesto you may be familiar with often has an overwhelming garlic taste, and is creamy, with a similar consistency to alfredo sauce. It is hard to even call pesto a sauce because it has no comparisons to other Italian pasta sauces. With that being said, it is a lot lower in calories. A traditional red pasta sauce has around 92 calories per serving[vi], whereas a freshly made pesto sauce only has around 34 calories per serving[vii].  You will surely need the energy from the pasta to help you walk up 300 some stairs to get to your hostile or hotel, since everything is built up the side of the cliff. This is what makes Cinque Terre so beautiful, but it is a very physical task, which luckily will keep you from hiding out in your room.

Stories have circulated about the head chef at Dau Cila being able to recite everyone’s specific orders to them if he is seen outside of the restaurant after hours. This shows a lot about the Italian culture, and how much passion and effort goes into every dish made. Perhaps the Dau Cila chef is a bit boastful, but he has confessed that he has won awards for the best pesto in Cinque Terre. That might be saying a lot, but regardless of the restaurant, the fresh pesto consumed in the Liguria region will be one of the best meals you have ever had.

---

[i] http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/destinations/italy/cinqueterrecuisine.htm,

[ii] http://www.cinqueterreonline.com, February 29, 2012

[iii] http://www.delallo.com/articles/marvel-simplicity-pesto-alla-genovese, 2013

[iv] http://www.ristorantedaucila.com/en/, 2013

[v] http://www.cinqueterreriomaggiore.com/en/guides/riomaggiore, 2012

[vi] http://caloriecount.about.com/marinara-sauce-recipe-r374897, 2013

[vii] http://caloriecount.about.com/fresh-pesto-recipe-r809 , 2013

Cinque Terre: "Five Lands"

Three hundred and seven: that’s how many steps it took me to walk up to my hostel in the beautiful coastal beach village of Riomaggiore. At midnight on a Friday, after a six-hour bus ride and heavy backpacks, this was a bit of a challenge. Only about one flight of stairs in, a friend of mine asked the man directing us to our room, “Excuse me how much longer?” To which he replies, “Um, 15 minutes.” We laughed, and kept walking.

The good thing about this exhausting journey up to our room was that we wanted to do it as few times as possible. So after getting little sleep, we awoke the next day to a gloomy morning, but set out on a day-long adventure to explore the other towns. We took the train down to the town called, Monterosso al Mare, which is known for its beautiful sandy beaches. We ate an amazing lunch at a restaurant along the beach where I had beef ravioli, with a white wine red sauce. It was by far the best ravioli I’ve ever had. I want to go back to Cinque Terre just to eat it, but more importantly to enjoy the amazing Mediterranean Sea.

Coming from Newport Beach, the ocean is something that is very special to me. Something about the salt encrusted on my skin after a long swim gives me a feeling of comfort and joy. I have grown up just 5 minutes from the beach, and I have never swum in any other ocean or sea but the Pacific. The water in the Mediterranean was saltier than at home, but it was also warmer. The sand was more coarse, and less white, but it still gave me a little feeling of home. Some friends and I swam out to some rocks that we noticed other people were jumping off. Jumping off of heights into water gives me more exhilaration than anything on earth, so after seeing it was safe, I didn’t think twice about going. We climbed up the face of a rocky cliff, about 35 feet up. It wasn’t slippery, but it was a very steep climb. After standing at the top looking into the inviting water for only a few seconds, I flung myself into the blue-green, deep, cove. After being in the mountainous region of the Dolomites for 2 weeks, seeing the sea and getting that adrenaline rush was much needed. I only did it once, because the hike up was scarier than I thought it would be. It was pretty risky, and a lot of people opted out because of the climb, so I figured if I survived it once I shouldn’t risk that again.

It was not the sunniest day, however it was still really hot and the water was very refreshing. Being that Cinque Terre is in the north, the weather doesn’t stay as nice as it does all year round. In fact, on Sunday there was a horrible storm that ruined our plans of repeating the beach day we had on Saturday. But that was okay, because one day was plenty. Better yet, now I have an excuse to go back some day.

Visiting Cinque Terre really made me want to travel in the summer to countries along the Mediterranean. While some may argue that it is less historic and educational, I can’t think of anything that would make me happier than traveling from beach to beach, and never leaving sight of the sea.

My splash from the jump (at least the photographer tried, right?)